Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 11:56:11 -0600 From: Annabel Smyth To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: KNIT: Catching up [...] So I'm starting my lilac and green cuff-to-cuff, successor to the ill- fated "Lilac clouds" and I only hope I like *this* one! Margot Kane wanted to know the pattern for a cuff to cuff, and I'm not using one, but this is how I'm doing it (general principles - adapt to suit yourselves): I'm using needles and yarn such that I'm getting a tension (gauge) of roughly 6 stitches and 8 rows per inch over stocking stitch. Stockinette stitch, I mean. And using needles 2 size smaller for the cuffs and welts (either circular or straight, depending on the length of the welt). Using smaller needles, I cast on 60 stitches, and work 24 rows in k1,p1 rib. Then I change to larger needles and, starting with a knit row, work in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of the 7th and every following 6th row until I have 90 stitches. Then I work another 6 rows, and then cast on 90 stitches at each end of the next two rows (at which point I change to a circular needle! But continue to knit back and forth). I continue in stocking stitch for another 50 rows. Divide for neck (you can either knit the front and then go back and knit the back, or you can knit the two pieces in parallel, it doesn't matter - if you opt to do them in parallel you will, of course, need an extra ball or balls of yarn) as follows: First row knit 131 stitches, turn. If you are knitting the pieces at the same time, slip next 4 stitches on to a holder for neckband, or cast them off (your choice), and knit remaining 135 stitches. The back is knitted straight over these 135 stitches, and all shapings apply to the front only. On the front, you decrease 1 stitch at neck end of next 9 rows, then every alternate row until 117 stitches remain. Work 14 rows straight, then increase over next 18 rows to match decreases, rejoin to the back, and knit another 50 rows straight. Cast off 90 stitches at each end of next two rows, at which point I normally revert to straight needles again, then work 6 rows straight, decrease 1 stitch at each end of next row, and continue decreasing every 6th row in the same way until you have 60 stitches left; change to smaller needles and work 24 rows in k1 p1 rib, then cast off. Using dpns or a circular in the same size as your smaller needles, pick up and knit a sensible number of stitches around the neck, work 24 rows in k1 p1 rib, put stitches on to a length of contrast yarn. Fold neckband to the inside, and catch down each stitch. Remove yarn. Now decide whether you want to do the bottom welts separately, or as a circle - if the latter, you sew up the side and seam sleeves first. Using smaller needles, or a smaller circular, pick up and knit 120 stitches per side, or 240 all the way round, work 24 rows or rounds and cast off. And sew up, if you have left it up until now. Of course, plain stockinette stitch is wasted on this sweater, but it is ideal for stripes as they come out vertical on the body, so much more flattering than horizontal. I'm doing a very simple pattern which I HOPE will look good, like this: 4 rows A in stockinette stitch, *K 2 rows in B, next row, K1, k2 together, yarn forward to end of row, K1, next row knit.* 4 more rows in A, 4 in B, then repeat from * to * in A, 4 rows in B, 4 in A and so on and so forth... -- Annabel Smyth Annabel@amsmyth.demon.co.uk ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Brixton, London, England! --- This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium http://www.woolworks.org/